United Supreme in Sunny Gelsenkirchen.
The Semi-Final of the European Cup usually offers fans the romance of visiting the continent’s glamorous powerhouses – Milan, Munich, Madrid et al; yet the thousands of Manchester United fans who descended upon Germany for their team’s first leg tie with Schalke 04 found themselves in lowly Gelsenkirchen – a place more akin to Crewe than Catalunia.
A small industrial city located in the Ruhr area of Western Germany, Gelsenkirchen’s 250,000 population take great pride in their football team which remains rooted in the heart of a working class community – a place of little to do, but a football hotbed nonetheless.
Many reds making the trip shunned a stay in Gelsenkirchen, some opting for Dusseldorf and Dortmund, some Amsterdam, but those who didn’t – ourselves included – were met with extreme hospitality and people almost as enthusiastic about United as they were ‘Die Konigsblauen’. On how many away trips could you enjoy a lock in at a local pub, singing United songs with locals and pulling your own pints?
Yet no matter where they stayed, come Tuesday – match day – Gelsenkirchen was Red. With the weather almost as gorgeous as the beer being liberally sunk, the town’s streets were awash with United fans, getting on with their German counterparts, and perhaps unusually, even the police.
As the sun dropped Reds descended upon Schalke’s hugely impressive ‘Veltin’s arena’ - infamous as the stage on which Wayne Rooney’s stamp and Cristiano Ronaldo’s wink ended England’s campaign in the 2006 World Cup. Located on an industrial estate a short tram ride from Gelsenkirchen, the stadium is an impressive monument to the efficiency and style of modern German football – the majority of stadia erected for the World Cup cost less than it took the FA to build the ‘new’, lifeless Wembley.
The 61,000 crowd normally pay as little as 10 Euros to watch their side, and whilst the capacity was slightly reduced to accommodate UEFA’s archaic stance on safe standing, the atmosphere was vociferous. Fans of Schalke have the reputation - along with bitter rivals Borussia Dortmund - of being the best in Germany, and the noise created by a sea of blue and white was immense.
On the pitch however, United were the dominant force. The opening 45 minutes saw only the exceptional Manuel Neuer stand between the Reds and a considerable half-time lead, with chance after chance thwarted by the excellent German. With the evergreen Raul and tricky Jefferson Farfan consistently on the periphery Schalke barely had a kick - United delivering a master class fitting of potential European champions.
The second half continued in a similar vein, and just shy of 70 minutes Ryan Giggs was the man to finally beat Neuer. Cue bedlam in the eastern corner of the ground housing the travelling support. Barely had the chaos ceased when Rooney scored United’s second. United’s 2,500 fans were delirious, Schalke’s were silenced. Two away goals, a potentially unassailable lead.
As United fans filed out of the ground songs of Wembley and scarlet ribbons worn in May boomed in the warm German night. Schalke fans seemed stunned at their team’s non-performance, and the ease in which they were swatted away in a performance which Alex Ferguson cited as one United’s finest in Europe.
Back in town fans waxed lyrical about a brilliant trip and a brilliant performance. Whilst it looks like the formidable Barcelona await, a performance like this could topple anybody.
We’re the famous Man United and we’re going to Wembley. Again.